No frills afternoon tea

Last Wednesday was Culture Day in Japan – another public holiday and day off in which to enjoy another afternoon tea. Culture Day it was, and cultured up I did, by drinking more tea.

From Courtyard Marriot tea

In a period of 11 days, this was my third partaking in afternoon tea. The request this time was for a cheap afternoon tea, and cheap it was. We went to possibly the cheapest afternoon tea establishment in Tokyo. However, it is nice to know that cheap does not necessarily mean bad. I had consulted my High Tea spreadsheet and came up with the Courtyard Marriot hotel in Ginza. Here you can partake in afternoon tea for 1680yen. Print off the offline coupon and you can score yourself an additional 10% discount.

From Courtyard Marriot tea

The lounge was nothing fancy, more like a really, really nice cafe/coffee shop in the lobby of a hotel. The three of us all ordered an afternoon tea set which consisted of sandwiches, one scone, pumpkin pie, and 2 little cakes. The food was tasty, very good. Nothing gourmet, but simple and delicious. There are only four basic teas that you can choose from – darjeeling, assam, earl grey or UVA. We all went the UVA (a Ceylon tea) which was perfect. UVA is a lighter tasting, less astringent black tea. Just what I was in the mood for. Here they tea is served in cups, and you can get as many cup refills as you like, but only of your one choice of tea. So you need to choose one tea and stick with it for the whole session. No tea sampling here.

From Courtyard Marriot tea
From Courtyard Marriot tea
From Courtyard Marriot tea

Afternoon tea at the Courtyard Marriot hotel is relaxing. It’s low key and no frills and very affordable. Afternoon tea without it’s pretentiousness. Endless cups of tea, yummy food, and no time limit. A pretty delightful experience. After about 4 hours of tea, we stayed to enjoy their 300yen glasses of wine.

From Courtyard Marriot tea
From Courtyard Marriot tea

Ginza is always a buzzing, glamorous district. The lights all come on during the evening, and Christmas illuminations will soon be up. After spending over 6 hours at the hotel, I walked then from Ginza to Tokyo station (about a 25-30min walk) through the cool, crisp Autumn night, slightly buzzing from the three glasses of wine. Courtyard Marriot Hotel, Ginza – Oasis Lounge Website in Japanese is here. The discount applies to their whole menu. More photos here

Autumn afternoon tea at the Shangri-la Hotel, Tokyo

Of all the seasons to do afternoon tea, Autumn would have to be the best. The cooler weather and the changing leaves is the ideal climate to enjoy hot cups of tea and comfort foods like scones, sandwiches and sweets in a nice warm lounge room whilst sinking into plush comfortable seats. A lot of hotels take advantage of the autumn season and offer a special seasonal menu showcasing typical autumn produce like pears, chestnuts and persimmons.

From Shangri-la High Tea

It actually also occurred to me that it has been one year since I started doing high teas in Tokyo. This exact time last year (in 2009) was my first high tea in Tokyo at the Peninsula Hotel – which coincidentally has also been the best place to date, in my opinion, to do afternoon tea in Tokyo. I racked up venue number 8 over the weekend on my High tea Tokyo Project (my quest to do every high tea available in Tokyo). By the time Sunday rolled around, Saturday’s typhoon had passed, and whilst it was still overcast, at least the rain held off. This time the occasion was Tami’s birthday get-together. Inspired by the mad hatter’s tea party in Disney’s Alice in Wonderland, she wanted to have a fancy tea party for her birthday. High tea is becoming a thing peoples! Become a part of the high tea movement! She settled on the Shangri-la hotel (which is the one I had hoped she would decide on, and the one that I had suggested). The Shangri-la was offering a special Autumn Afternoon Tea set only until the end of November, so I am glad I got the chance to try it. Being an autumn afternoon set it made use of of a lot of chestnuts.

From Shangri-la High Tea

The Lobby Lounge of the Shangri-la Hotel is on the 28th floor of the Marunouchi Trust Tower building, right outside Tokyo station (North Yaesu/Nihonbashi exit). The details to decor at the Shangri-la is exquisite with an elegant oriental touch. The layout of the room reminded me a lot of the Mandarin Oriental tea lounge with it’s window seating, and counter bar.

From Shangri-la High Tea
From Shangri-la High Tea
From Shangri-la High Tea

The food here was delectable (a new adjective to my food repetoire). I was most impressed by the sandwiches which were savoury delights to the palate. These were fancy appetizers. I also loved the patterned tea set and tea cups. The food here was so rich and decadent that I didn’t even finish all of the desserts tier, a first ever for me. They also had some very interesting fancy teas. I tried the Shangri-la hotel blend which was basically an assam and darjeeling blend – can’t go wrong there. I also had the Darjeeling Blend (darjeeling is apparently know as the “champagne of teas”), and I also tried the almond chocolate tea. This was more bitter than sweet. It was like the coffee of teas. Not being a coffee drinker, I didn’t enjoy it as much as I thought I would. Probably one of my favourite teas on the menu was the Autumn Alascian Garden tea, which I got to try a sip of, but ran out of time to order a pot of. This was a real interesting herbal tea blend consisting of mirabel, rhubarb (!), centaurea and calendula. I don’t know what half of those ingredients are but it was fine tea indeed. I am interested in getting my hands on some of that Alascian Garden tea – not sure if it’s a hotel blend, or whether it’s a real tea available on the market.

From Shangri-la High Tea
From Shangri-la High Tea

Service was good, food was excellent, decor detail stunning, views pretty good too – we could see the Sky Tree nearing construction, and live music from a pianist added a nice touch. The downside was that the tea session was limited to only 2 hours which was definitely not enough time. I felt hurried. I felt rushed to get through the tea and food without really eating slowly and savouring everything. 3 hours minimum needed to enjoy high tea. No debate about it. The tea lounge though was very busy with pretty much all seats occupied, and pending reservations after our session so they needed guests to be in and out, which was a shame.

From Shangri-la High Tea
From Shangri-la High Tea

Gourmet food and tea quality was top notch though, and so is the price tag. It was the most expensive high tea to date, at 4290yen. For that amount of money, you could have gotten a decent 3-course meal and not have been hurried out. This venue is going to be a tough one to rank. I am undecided which I liked better – the Park Hyatt or the Shangri-la’s high tea…on seconds thoughts I think I liked this one. It’s fine dining high tea, on the classy elegant side and should get the credit it deserves. Kudos to the pastry chefs at the Shangri-la. Fine job. In terms of food, tea and details, it kicked arse over the Park Hyatt. Although I thoroughly enjoyed my experience at the Park Hyatt it wasn’t on the merits of its afternoon tea.

From Shangri-la High Tea
From Shangri-la High Tea

The complete photo album can be viewed here. The Shangri-la afternoon tea information: English Japanese Read their Dining Events for up-to-date dining and seasonal afternoon tea specials. 5192692 2010-11-03 03:12:11 2010-11-03 02:12:11 open closed autumn-afternoon-tea-at-the-shangri-la-hotel-tokyo publish 0 0 post 0 food High/Afternoon Tea: Tokyo Japan Tea Tokyo Tokyo Dining _edit_last 253158 _wp_old_slug 1609 BottleLobotomy bottlelobotomy@gmail.com 118.109.101.20 2010-11-05 14:19:29 2010-11-05 13:19:29 Aleisha, My wife and I always look forward to reading your new reviews of Tokyo’s afternoon tea locations. Please keep up the great work! Have you thought of venturing into Yokohama for afternoon tea? BL 1 0 0 1611 Alei aleishariboldi@gmail.com 118.8.143.209 2010-11-08 03:08:51 2010-11-08 02:08:51 Thank you for reading, and leaving a comment. I love high teas! And yes, I am definitely interested in venturing into Yokohama for tea and cakes, time permitting. There are actually a few venues that I want to get around to in Yokohama that I’ve had my eyes on so perhaps in the New Year… 1 1609 253158 Sailing on the Nile http://memoirsofaleisha.blog.com/2010/11/04/sailing-on-the-nile/ Thu, 04 Nov 2010 02:59:17 +0000 aleishariboldi@gmail.com http://memoirsofaleisha.blog.com/?p=5192693 So one of the things that I did in Egypt was do a 3-night/4-day luxury cruise along the Nile River. I started from Aswan and sailed north to Luxor. After having spent a week on my own in Egypt, I met up with Bex from the UK for the cruise part. In Aswan we sailed on a felucca (an Egyptian sailing boat), which was most relaxing, and then we boarded our luxury cruise as we spent the next couple of days cruising down the Nile with some sightseeing stops along the way. The heat in Aswan was intense. Between 35-40 degrees celcius everyday. Cruises, generally aren’t my thing but along the Nile River it was actually really relaxing. It didn’t feel like the cruise liner was moving. Something like this I can handle. A cruise on the open high seas would be another thing altogether as I’m apt to be seasick. This cruise though was calm, and relaxing. It was nice to sit and do nothing. We spent the mornings sightseeing, and then the afternoons indulging in tea and afternoon snacks with a book, and dip on the deck pool, watching the sun set. Ah t’was the life indeed. All meals included – buffet breakfast, buffet lunch and buffet dinner. Thou shalt not go hungry on a Nile River Cruise.

From Nile Cruise Day 1
From Nile Cruise Day 1
From Nile Cruise Day 1
From Nile Cruise Day 1
From Nile Cruise Day 1
From Nile Cruise Day 1

More photos available here. 5192693 2010-11-04 03:59:17 2010-11-04 02:59:17 open closed sailing-on-the-nile publish 0 0 post 0 Egypt Travel travel _edit_last 253158 _wp_old_slug Enchanted with Enchan-thé http://memoirsofaleisha.blog.com/2010/11/08/enchanted-with-enchan-the/ Mon, 08 Nov 2010 03:06:11 +0000 aleishariboldi@gmail.com http://memoirsofaleisha.blog.com/?p=5192694 Enchan-thé – Is that not the best name for a tea store. Ever. It totally kicks arse over the name that I have in my head if I was to ever own a tea store/salon. In my blog review of the Shangri-la tea, I mentioned that I was interested in the tea that was called the Autumn Alsacian Garden Tea. I did some Internet research on it, and all I could come up with, was that Alsace is a name of a small region in France. I could find nothing in relation to tea. The description of that tea at the Shangri-la said that it was a blend of fine tea from China and Sri Lanka with mirabel, rhubarb, cantaurea and calendula from Alsacian Garden. Alsace being a region of France, I discovered.

From Shangri-la High Tea

I emailed the hotel last week asking them for any information at all on the tea, in particular, where I could buy it. I asked them whether they would either sell me some of the tea directly or if they could tell me their supplier. To my excitement I received a very well-written English response from them the very next day. This particular tea is purchased through a supplier, so not a hotel blend, and she gave me a direct link to their website. www.enchan-the.com “The Art of French Tea”. How awesome is that for a tea store name. I do love and appreciate a good pun! “Enchante” in French, an introductory meaning “a pleasure to meet you”, and then “thé” – French for ‘tea’ being added to the end. Pure genius of a name for a French tea store. This supplier specialises in French tea (フランス紅茶専門店). And the tea which I like, is actually called ‘Petite France’ through the supplier, and was renamed by Shangri-la for their tea menu. The Enchan-thé website is pretty cool – a blend of Japanese and French, and lots of interesting gourmet exotic tea blends, which can be purchased through their website. They also sell a range of coloured teapots, accessories and gifts – all tea-related of course. When one thinks of tea, they do not think of France, so this website is quite fascinating as it specialises in the Art of French Tea. I will now also be able to get my hands on some of that ‘Petite France’ (Autumn Alscian Garden tea) which is actually one of their new tea products . You can order direct online (they deliver throughout Japan), and read the staff blog, and the owner’s blog. Will be nice to actually read stuff in Japanese that I will actually enjoy reading about. (Site is not available in English). From the website, it does not sound like they have a cafe/restaurant or a shop (they mostly import and supply, rather than retail sales), but the listed business address is in Tokyo (Komagome area). Will be bookmarking their website for sure.

Tea at the Park Hyatt, Tokyo

Thanks to the movie “Lost in Translation”, the Park Hyatt Hotel has been the “go to” place for a fancy night out. A cocktail at the New York Bar and Grill on the 52nd floor, the scene where Bill Murray and Scarlett Johanssen cross paths, is now an obligatory drinking spot for tourists visiting Tokyo. I’ve been there and done that a couple of times now, albeit a few years ago. I was back at the Park Hyatt Hotel over the weekend, this time, to enjoy high tea. The occasion – Skye’s birthday. I had said I would organise her 30th birthday soiree. She invited a small group of friends, and I arranged the venue. The Afternoon Tea at the Park Hyatt takes place in the Peak Lounge located on level 41 of the Park Tower in Shinjuku. The Peak Lounge is a lounge restaurant/cafe by day and bar/dining by night. It’s a bamboo themed lounge with a glass atrium. It commands a 270 degree over Shinjuku, Tokyo and beyond. Even a glimpse of Mount Fuji on a clear day.

From Park Hyatt High Tea
From Park Hyatt High Tea
From Park Hyatt High Tea

I had booked well in advance for the occasion as we wanted to guarantee ourselves window seats to enjoy the views from its huge glass windows. The Park Hyatt is one of the few high tea venues in Tokyo with a view. Groups of 4 are ideal for window seating. A table for 6 required a bit more dialogue back and forth with the hotel. Of the 6 people in attendance, three had dietary requirements, so best to let the hotel know in advance. They were most accommodating. We had 2 vegetarian afternoon tea sets, and 1 semi-vegetarian set (meat ok, no seafood), and three regular afternoon tea sets. (The sandwiches usually contain meat and seafood such as salmon or prawns.)

From Park Hyatt High Tea
From Park Hyatt High Tea

It was a lovely afternoon for a birthday afternoon tea on an autumn Saturday. We were blessed with great weather so that we could actually enjoy the view from our window seats. We glammed up for the occasion. I wore a dress and heels – a very rare occasion where I wear either. I scrub up quite well when I put in a little effort. I’ll take jeans and sneakers anyday though. I much prefer to dress for comfort.

From Park Hyatt High Tea
From Park Hyatt High Tea

I do love high tea, and as far as high teas go, the Park Hyatt was pretty good. It won points on reservation service (they were most accommodating to all our requests), food was very good (sandwiches were probably my least favourite though), atmosphere and views were outstanding. It lost points on extremely slow service. Order your pot of tea half an hour before you actually want it because it will take that long for it to be brought out. But then it got bonus points for all the extra sweets and hor’d’eouvres that you get. So the way that afternoon tea works at the Park Hyatt is that you order the afternoon tea set which is your three platters of sandwiches, scones and sweets. You can then choose as many different pots of teas as you like from the menu. In addition, throughout the day/afternoon, waiters walk around to your table delivering trays of extra sweets and appetizers from which you can choose whatever you like and have as many as you like, and it’s free. The afternoon tea session is however limited to 3 hours, and you will be gently reminded of that. I thought the tea selection was very limited and not at all creative. There was a limited handful, and nothing really exotic. Just regular assam, darjeeling, earl grey, and some Asian/herbal teas. I didn’t think the teas were very special. In fact, quite ordinary. The afternoon tea costs 3200yen but with service tax etc added, it totals to 3520yen which is standard for high tea. The extra food platters that come around during afternoon tea is a nice touch though.

From Park Hyatt High Tea
From Park Hyatt High Tea
From Park Hyatt High Tea
From Park Hyatt High Tea

It was a girl’s day out, although Skye’s bf did join us later for a late dinner and drinks. After afternoon tea which ended at 6pm, we then switched from cakes to cocktails and headed to level 52 to the New York Bar, a la Lost in Translation style. If you are not a guest of the hotel, entry after 8pm costs 2200yen. Prior to 8pm there’s no seating charge, however if you stay past 8pm, you will be charged. So you need to be in and out before 8pm to avoid the charge. We lounged around in the Bar enjoying the night lights of Tokyo with cocktail in hand. We then headed into Shinjuku proper for a late dinner and drinks at an izakaya. I’m such a high tea nerd. But it’s such a relaxing hobby. Throughout the year I have been keeping a spreadsheet of every venue that offers high tea in Tokyo and keeping notes on them, and ranking them. I realised that I’ve only done about 7 of them. Feels like I’ve done so much more than that! Still got so many to go.

From Park Hyatt High Tea
From Park Hyatt High Tea

Skye had a great birthday, so mission accomplished. I already have my birthday high tea planned for next year. Very excited. It’s the only thing I am looking forward to about turning 30 – it’s going to be the creme de la creme of high tea extravagances. Enjoy the fancy pics!

From Park Hyatt High Tea
From Park Hyatt High Tea
From Park Hyatt High Tea
From Park Hyatt High Tea
From Park Hyatt High Tea

 

Zabou: high tea at the Cerulean Tower Hotel, Shibuya

Zabou: My new word which captures the essence of tea. So another high tea venue in Tokyo crossed off my list – Cerulean Tower Hotel in Shibuya. The Garden Lounge at Cerulean Hotel is called Zabou. My translation of the word was “Sit and forget” (a direct translation of the two kanji which make up the word) which is exactly what you want to do in a lounge drinking tea and eating scones. Sit, relax and forget about everything else. It’s a most appropriate name for a tea lounge, don’t you think. My interpretation wasn’t too far off. Let me quote the concept of Zabou as defined in the Zabou menu: “Zabou is a Japanese expression for the serene state of mind that one achieves at the height of the traditional Japanese tea ceremony. The mind is cleared and all unpleasant thoughts are cast away so that the soul can relax and take in the beauty of nature. We hope that your visit to Zabou will relax you and fill you with calm and enlightenment.”

Wow. That for me sums up the joy of tea and the pleasure of high/afternoon tea. Some people get massages, some people pray. Me, I drink tea.

The afternoon tea set at Zabou needs to be booked in advance. The set is called the Tour d’ensemble and it is pretty darn delicious. The food is gourmet, and is is definitely one of the better tasting afternoon tea sets around. I think this creeps up within my top three in Tokyo. The savoury tier is really good. It’s lighter on the sandwiches and consists of other appetisers instead. There was a pumpkin mousse, marinated mushrooms, a mini quiche, ham on baguette, and a bread stick. It was all very good. Definitely a winner. The vegetarian set they prepared for Skye was also very impressive. (Let the hotel know in advance of any dietary requirements. They are very accommodating.)

On the scone tier – there were 3 scones – plain, brown sugar and, and one other one. These were good scones, a lot better than some others that I’ve had. I especially enjoyed the condiments – cream, and the lemon butter was extremely nice. Not a raspberry jam fan.

As for the sweets, these too were quite divine. All-round, this was an excellent afternoon tea set in terms of taste. Tea here was also very good. From the tea menu you can try and have as many different pots of tea as you like. I had about four pots of tea. The teas come out in different shaped teapots, and the chinese teas come out in a little terracotta pot. I had Assam tea, white peach tea (surprisngly very good), African morning tea (a bit too creamy), and a Chinese tea called Oriental Beauty.

We whiled away about 3.5 hours here, drinking endless pots of tea. The Lounge is located on the lobby floor so there’s no view but it’s good for people-watching as people come in and out of the lobby, wedding receptions etc. The Lounge is nice and elegant but lacks a bit of character and not as comfy seating as the Westin Hotel.

Excellent value at 3200yen for a delicious afternoon tea set, endless pots of assorted tea. Convenient location – 2 minutes from the West exit of Shibuya station (cross over the big intersection footbridge and it’s the tall tower that you see. And in case you were wondering, Cerulean is a colour. It’s shades of blue ranging from sky blue, deep blue to green-blue. Embrace Zabou. Details for afternoon tea at the Cerulean Hotel in Shibuya can be found here Full photo album can be viewed here

High Tea at the Westin Hotel, Tokyo

Last Sunday was not spent competing in an open water swim race. Instead, I spent it indoors enjoying a glorious summer Sunday in Tokyo. First, it was to the Tokyo Metropolitan Photography Museum, followed by High Tea at the Westin Hotel. Both are within metres from each other in Ebisu. According to my research, I have so far found approximately 38 places in Tokyo to do high tea at. I’ve already been to about 6 of them. I am aiming to do one a month, but at that rate, it’s going to to take a few years! Might have to make it a fortnightly thing. So it’s been about 2 months since my last Tokyo high tea. Most of my weekends throughout the summer have been consumed by OWS races. It was nice to take a day off and indulge with pots of tea and food treats. The Westin Hotel in Ebisu, is a very nice hotel. Grand lobby and a great Lounge, where the afternoon tea is offered. I had made advance reservations and was glad I did, because there quite a few people. We got lucky and had window seats. We were on ground floor so not much of an aerial view but it did look out into a courtyard with a water feature. It was a very standard high tea set. The 3-tiered platter, complete with desserts, scones, and sandwiches. The vegetarian option for Skye came with salad sandwiches and a vegetable sticks with dips (in place of the quiche). I thought the desserts were quite nice, but both the sandwiches and scones were disappointing. I didn’t realise how difficult it is to get decent scones in Japan. Really, they’re not that hard to make but by golly, my goodness, I am yet to eat decent scones in Japan. The sandwiches were also so-so. I did enjoy the quiche. Service here was good, as is the decor and ambience. The sofa chairs were so comfy. And it’s an easy venue to while away time. That’s probably why they set a 3hour limit. The food wasn’t up to par as some of the other venues I’ve been too. The tea selection whilst not overly expansive, was still very decent. They used great leaves and most teas were served in glass teapots. The great thing here is that you can order as many pots of tea as you like and try any of the teas or coffees on the menu. Both Skye and I consumed four pots of tea each during our 3.5 hour tea session. Mind you, each teapot got you 2-3 cups of tea. So after drinking about 10-12 cups of tea each, after two hours in, we were pretty much playing tag team for toilet runs. We overstayed the limit by an extra half hour but we weren’t harassed out at all. In fact, after 3.5 hours, we left on our own accord, only because we kept running to the toilet back and forth that we decided we should leave. I still have to admit that the best High Tea in Tokyo is the Peninsula Hotel. That has become the standard, the yardstick by which I measure all other highs tea by (in Tokyo anyway). St Christophers Tea Garden also rates up there in the top 3. The High Tea at the Westin is a flat 3500yen per person which is standard and good value for the all food and unlimited tea (extra with an alcoholic beverage). Afternoon tea is served between 12-6pm (3-hour time limit). It is also a very convenient hotel to get to. Take the JR train to Ebisu station. Take the East Skywalk exit which will take you out to Ebisu Garden Place which is like a big forum, square. Walk right through the Garden Place past the French chateau and it’s the hotel clearly marked on the left hand side.

Minami Boso, Iwai beach, OWS numero 3

Another swimming Sunday to start off the month of August. I set off early for the 2 hour train trip to Iwai beach which is in the Minami Boso region of Chiba prefecture. I was up at 6am and took a limited express train (a semi shinkansen) to Iwai. I was lucky to make the Sazanami limited express train from Tokyo. What I didn’t realise was that the platform at Tokyo station (the Keiyo line) is a good 1km walk from the regular JR train platforms. If you’ve ever taken the train from Tokyo to Disneyland, you’ll know it’s that underground platform far far away from all the other trains. Just making the train in time, I at least traveled in comfort to Iwai. It was pretty empty at 7.30am.

The weather was hot and muggy but really overcast and smoggy. I got to Iwai station a bit after 9am and followed some other guys that looked like they were also there for the swim (they were). I got to the race venue just a tad before 9.30am. The mercury had already hit 33 degrees and Iwai beach was packed. It was the most crowded beach I have ever seen in Japan. The amount of people that were there well before 9.30am was unbelievable. I’m guessing it’s a pretty popular beach.

Iwai beach was the setting for my third OWS and the third prefecture (having already done Shizuoka and Hokkaido). I was registered for the 1km swim. A nice standard distance at a beach (an ocean swim). This is kind of my comfort zone at the moment. Like the Atami swim this event was an JIOWSA swim event. I had initially wanted to spend the weekend in Chiba near the beach to save me the trouble of an early start on the Sunday. But alas, there was no available accommodation whatsoever. This is becoming a bit of a problem. Next week’s swim in Shizuoka again, I was not able to book anywhere. Iwai is a small coastal beach town so accommodation is limited and what is available was already snapped up, despite my efforts to try and book accommodation 2 weeks in advance. I tried like every single accommodation near Iwai to no avail. I can now see why there were no available lodgings. That whole coastline was packed. I guess it didn’t help that it was a hot summer’s day, a weekend, and school holidays to boot. The conditions were hot andI was sweating like nobody’s business. Even the sand was too hot to walk on barefooted. There was no shade whatsoever. The heat was relentless. Vitamin D intake exceeded.The sun cream I was applying was basically turning to sweat. My race didn’t start until a bit after 11am. By this time as well, I hadn’t had anything to eat. No time in the morning for breakfast, I had just made the trains in the morning and hadn’t eaten anything on the 2 hour journey.

When I got to the beach, there was of course no food nor vending machines. I was hot and wanted to keep hydrated as well, but also need to preserve what little water I had for after the race as well. I had wanted to squeeze in a conbini run but didn’t come across any. There was quite a decent turnout for this race. I even recognised a couple of people that were there from the Atami swim. 1km isn’t that far, but when you look out into the ocean, 1km looks really far. Those buoys look impossibly distant. The first race was the 400m event. They then moved the buoys even further out for the 1km course. It was a triangular course, swimming out to the right, then across the beach parallel to the shore, and then back into the shore.

There were enough competitors to have two starts for this event. All up, according to the program schedule, there were 33 females and 87 males for a total of 120 competitors in the 1km swim. We were given bright orange swim caps for the 1km. The water temp was beautiful, I reckon about 24 degrees, The first 300m or so were hard. I always find the first few hundred metres of a race the most difficult as the body is trying to warm up and adjust until you find a rhythm. The start is also where it’s the most violent and you wait for the pack to thin out. I was enjoying the beautiful water. This was probably the most enjoyable ocean swim to date. I didn’t think too much about the race and was really enjoying just being in beautiful water and being able to cool off.

As far as beaches in Japan goes, this one was pretty good. Not too many waves, although bouncy enough out there, perfect water temp and clean clear salt water. There were patches out there in the ocean though where the water was really cold and then you’d hit a warm patch again. It was a most refreshing swim and I felt comfortable with my pace. Vision was my biggest problem in this race. After passing the 400m mark my goggles started to fog to the point where I couldn’t really see the buoys so I had to spend a couple of seconds treading water and clear them but when I put them back on again a little salt water had gotten in and I didn’t want to waste time letting the water in, so one eye got a bit of salty water in it for the rest of the race.

One thing I find with ocean swimming is that I often swim semi-blind. Because I wear glasses and obviously don’t wear glasses or contact lenses in the water, and I’m only wearing goggles, it means that I can’t see long distances out in the ocean. I actually have trouble seeing the buoys and I actually just rely on other swimmers. I follow other swimmers and let them guide me. They really need more buoys between the main buoys to guide your way to the next one. When there is no buoy for 400m or so until the next one, it makes it hard to know if you’re on course or not. I remember feeling quite thirsty out there too – all that salt water in my mouth. After passing the 2nd last buoy before heading back into the shore, I came upon a little problem. I was not alone either. We had just swum across the ocean and were heading back into the shore but after coming around that buoy we couldn’t see where to go next. Myself and some other swimmers had to stop for a second to get our bearings. After coming round that buoy and looking back into the shore, all we could see was a totally packed shoreline and we had no idea where our set-up finish line was because all we could see was people along the whole coast that we had no idea in which direction to head back in to. One of the other swimmers yelled out to a nearby patrol guard for the direction and we were pointed the right way. I then tried to follow other swimmers as best I could using them as my eyes. When I could see the sand at the bottom of the ocean again, I knew that I was getting closer to the shore. When swimming in to the finish line, I never know at what point to keep on swimming or stand up and run to the finish. Is it faster to run through the water, or swim through??

I got position 44 out of 120 of all competitors in the 1km swim, which I thought was pretty decent. In the top 3rd. I felt my time would be average around the 20 minute mark. My time in fact was 21 minutes and 16 seconds for a 1km ocean swim. I placed 8th out of 10 in my age category. I’m always placing 7th or 8th. And placed 19th out of 34 women across all age groups. An average swim result. But it was a swim that I really enjoyed. I felt good in the water. By now I was pretty hungry, thirsty and damn hot. The day just kept getting hotter and the sweat just kept coming. The next event was the 3km. There were more people in the 3km race event than there were in the 1km – I thought that was pretty impressive. I think the longer distance events are quite popular. 3km – that’s pretty hardcore. The buoys had been moved out even further and they had to do do two laps. Just before 1pm I headed back to the station to head home. Not a single conbini and no food in sight. By this time I still hadn’t eaten a morsel of food since the night before. Iwai is a real inaka place – it’s a place that’s in the middle of nowhere, surrounded by mountains and a coastline. Not much by way of facilities. No conbinis, nor eateries. I came across an omiyage store near the station and settled for a pineapple ice block. Hot, sweat and hungry I downed a water from the vending machine, and two ice creams (the aforementioned pineapple calippo-like ice block and a vanilla Coolish which I ate on the train back. Coolish is a soft serve ice-cream in mini bladder bag which you suck out. Tastes better than the way I have just described it. Still two ice creams was not very substantial.

Made it back to Tokyo with time to catch a movie with a friend in the afternoon – Toy Story 3 in 3D, dubbed in Japanese (yep, my friend booked tickets to the wrong one – the dubbed Japanese version rather than the original English). It was still such a great movie though. Highly recommend. It was funny and touching. The Ken montage scene to Le Freak is GOLD! I really want to see it again in English! By the by, the first day of every month is cheap movie day in Japan. It’s called “First Day” all tickets on a tsuitachi (first day of the month) are 1000yen. 1300yen because we saw it in 3D. This weekend was also the opening weekend in Japan for Inception which was actually our first movie preference but tix were sold out. A satisfying Sunday.

So I’ve accomplished my goal to do at least three open water swims this summer in Japan. But I’m not stopping there. I’m already registered for another two swims. The distances to date have been quite tame. I am ramping up the distances from hereon. Next weekend another swim – a 2km ocean swim in Shizuoka prefecture again. Not sure how I will go with these longer distances. It’s been a while since I’ve done some real long-distance swimming. Even more concerning is the 4km ocean swim in another few weeks! Here are some open water swimming advice/tips that appear in the swim program. The whole program is written in Japanese except for the following three bits which appear in English, which I think is really random: “‘Distraction’ means keeping your mind busy and away from negative thoughts, thinking thoughts unrelated to your swimming – eg. going through lists of things in your mind, such as your favourite movies, books etc.” “Open water swimmers require a completely different type of mental toughness to pool swimmers, as there are completely different aspects and challenges they face when out there in the open water.” “some issues you encounter under the stress of open water swimming can be extremely difficult unless your mind is programmed for mental toughness.”

 

What I talk about when I talk about swimming…

Before there was Murakami, there was Carver – Raymond Carver that is. I can totally see how Murakami was heavily influenced by him. If you’ve ever read Murakami Haruki’s “What I talk about when I talk about running”, you’ll know that he borrowed that title from Raymond Carver’s collection of short stories called “What we talk about when we talk about love”. My favourite short story in the collection is “The Bath” which also appears in Murakami’s short story collection “Birthday Stories”. Bath…pool…water…swimming. Everything is connected. So you know that I love food and eating, and to look at me I am no athlete by any definition, but all this eating can take a toll on one’s physique. I try to maintain this balance by swimming. Funnily enough, all that swimming makes me wanna do, is eat more.

Lately, I’ve been swimming…a lot…sort of…trying to?… My summer goal for this year is to get back into some ocean swimming races. I used to do it (ir)regularly back in Sydney in my uni days. I had a couple that I liked to compete in, in particular the Bondi Cole Classic (from North Bondi to South Bondi beach and back – I believe this has now been moved to Steyne/Manly Beach) and also the Sydney Harbour swim. The Sydney Harbour Swim is the only sanctioned swim that allows participants to swim from the Sydney Opera House to Fort Denison and back right in Sydney Harbour. It’s pretty iconic. Ocean swimming as you guessed it, takes place in the ocean. It’s probably more accurate to describe it as Open Water swimming (that is, not a pool) – these Open Water swims are usually in oceans, harbours or even lakes. They involve swimming long distances usually between 1 to 5km. I have been swimming since the age of 5. I practically learnt to swim before I could even speak English (English being the second language I learnt).

As I kid in swim school from the age of 5 – I used to dread going to swimming lessons after school at Guildford Pool. Butterflies would literally swim in my stomach. I liked the pools, and I liked water but I hated swimming lessons! The teachers were old and really strict back in the 80s. As I grew older, I learnt to love swimming. It was something I had grown up with, and it was something that I didn’t totally suck at. As is typical in most Australian schools – swimming lessons at some point are compulsory. I remember compulsory swim lessons in Yr 5 and Yr 6, and when I got to high school – our school had its own pool, so again swimming was a part of the curriculum. In the junior years of high school I also kept up swim squad training, clocking up several km’s a week and then Saturday morning competition. The problem with all this swim training was that I was always ravenous as a teenager. I had an insatiable appetite (I still do). Swimming really stimulates the appetite. I wasn’t really that good a swimmer competition wise. I’m not really a fast swimmer – more an endurance swimmer. I am cursed with slow twitch fibres which means I will never be good at sprint sports or speed. Endurance is more my thing.

As I got older – Yr 10 onwards, I gave up all competitive sports (swimming and netball). It was the time to focus on studies, School Certificate and HSC etc, and also time to get a part time job after school and on the weekend – leaving little time for sports. That said, though, I still enjoyed swimming for leisure and would often swim on my own on a regular basis. I refused to give up swimming altogether. Later in uni, I got my AustSwim and Bronze Medallion qualifications etc, and become a pool lifeguard and qualified learn to swim instructor. I worked at various pools in the my local district. Every now and then I would compete in an ocean swim, or a team triathlon with my friends in which I naturally do the swim leg. Swimming is one the things I love I do and always try to make time for. When going on a holiday I will religiously pack my swimmers and goggles – just in case.

When I moved to Japan, one of the first things I did was suss out all my pool options. In Sapporo, as a uni exchange student it was the Konami Gym centre, in Namie it was Refure pool, in Hirafu it was the Alpen Hotel. I was even teaching swim classes during my summer in Hirafu. Pools are my little wells of life. Now in Tokyo, it is the local fitness chain centre I have joined. I love swimming. And the body loves swimming. It’s so good for you. It’s good for your breathing, it’s an all-body workout – your legs are moving, arms are moving, head and neck are moving. It’s a good aerobic exercise and whilst it’s not the best for strength (better off with weight training), it’s a decent resistance work out with your muscles working against the water it can be quite a body toner. And it’s no/low impact and stress on the body. I’ve never known anyone to have suffered from a swimming injury (unless of course you don’t know how to swim, in which case results in drowning). The water is cool, fresh and invigorating. Swimming is a great stress reliever too (although occasionally I am prone to pool rage – more on that later), and helps regulate your respiratory system. It’s also therapeutic and one of the best exercises you can do for physical rehab.

I used to be a volunteer swim teacher at the Children’s hospital in Sydney for the NSW Asthma Foundation. Swimming was deemed to be good therapy for kids with asthma. On Saturday mornings, at the kids hospital – asthmatic kids could receive breathing and swimming lessons from volunteers as part of their asthma management. Also good for knocking over a hangover too, although you don’t want to be too hungover. When I injured my arm snowboarding, I was off the ski slopes for a good few weeks. The pool was my saviour.

With swimming there’s options – you can freestyle, butterfly, backstroke, breaststroke, sidestroke, or just walk in the pool. With jogging – you can either run or walk only. Furthermore, swimming can be enjoyed all year round because it can either be outdoors or indoors. As far as most sports go, it’s also a pretty cheap one to take up. A pair of togs, goggles, a cap (all of which won’t break the bank) and the couple of bucks for pool entry. Now sports like skiing, snowboarding etc require expensive gear and safety equipment. Every pool I’ve ever joined also offers membership or bulk coupons which give you a little bit of a discount or saving. Pool entry is what people would spend a cup of coffee on each day. It’s affordable. I think that those who do not have private health insurance should at least get a yearly gym membership. Both are investments in your health, especially in the day and age of rising obesity and health-related problems. If you can afford both, even better (luckily I do!). Why plan for the day when you suffer from cardiovascular disease when you could prevent it altogether with daily exercise.

Now, just a quick word on pool rage. This is the part where I vent a little. The “pool” experience in Japan can be somewhat frustrating at first. I have (reluctantly) learnt to deal with it. Here are some things that really get up my nostrils (thereby “irritate” me) about swimming and pools in Japan:

– no jewellery or accessories are allowed in the pool. This means no rings, earrings, necklaces or watches. You will be chased down by the pool attendant and be forced to remove them. If you can’t remove them, they make you tape it up. Believe me, I have seen Japanese men with wedding bands that can’t be removed from their finger so they have to cover it with tape. The tape is provided at the pool too. Occasionally when I have forgotten to remove my earrings, I’ve had to tape them up. How could they even see my earlobes when I’m swimming up and down the pool?? I’m actually pretty sure that one of the obasans that were slowing me down, dobbed me in. (Do people say “dobbed in” these days??? Wasn’t sure what to use in the alternative. Any suggestions?)

– the wearing of swimming caps is compulsory, but the crazy thing is, is that they don’t make waterproof caps in Japan (well I think they do, but they’re really hard to find). Swim caps in Japan are not made from latex or rubber or whatever is. They’re made of a nylon fabric. The whole point of the cap in Japan is to prevent hair getting in the pool, rather than to prevent your hair getting wet.

– everyone must swim in the “right” direction. Up the pool on your right, and down the pool on your left. I once went to this insane pool where you had to swim up in one lane, duck the rope and go down in the next lane. So one lane was for one direction, and the other lane for the other direction. Yeah, sure this meant that two swimmers could go side by side (swim abreast) in the one lane, but having to switch lanes to return in the opposite direction is crazy!!! That doesn’t make for very productive lap swimming when you have to stop at every end, and duck the lane to go back.

– showering/rinsing is mandatory prior to entering the pool. Valid for hygiene reasons (although I maintain chlorine is gonna kill any germs that are in pool). This isn’t something that is compulsory in Australia.Pools in Japan, have a shower walkway/doorway that you have to walk through in order to enter the pool. This means that towels cannot be brought into the pool area. because they’re ultimately gonna get wet when you go through that walkway. Leave them in your locker or shower room.

– overtaking of another swimmer is not allowed. At various pools, if I’ve ever overtaken a slow swimmer, I have always been chased down by the pool attendant. This countlessly means that I am stopped by slow swimmers. I am forced to walk or stop swimming. The majority of pools however usually have a slow and a fast lane, but that’s not always the case. Sometimes it’s one lane fits all. This is even more frustrating because you’ll get backstrokers in amongst the freestylers! The pool I go to has only three lanes. One lane is a walking only lane. The Japanese love just walking up and down the pool. So much so that there is a lane dedicated to that. The other two lanes are swimming lanes, but if there happens to be an aqua class, all lanes swimmers are then lumped into one lane. And if you can’t overtake a slow swimmer, this is very painful, not to mention a disruption to my laps.

– Another thing I have noticed about a few pools in Japan (not all though) is that they are poorly designed with the locker/change rooms and the pool on separate floor levels. I’ve been to a few pools in Japan which involve a flight of stairs. I think that this is one of the most dangerous designs for a pool. Wet, slippery stairs. I mean really!!! It’s a real hazard for people to going up and down stairs that are wet and slippery. There should be a minimum amount of distance between a pool and the change room. The less distance, the less chance of injury. I mentioned earlier that swimming is one of the safest exercise you can do. This is the exception. I reckon more pool accidents happen outside the pool than in the pool (i.e. by running or walking on slippery surfaces).

Phew. What a vent. In fact, I think I need a swim in order to relieve some of that stress. And thus that nasty vicious cycle begins. I go swimming to relieve stress, only to get stressed at the pools, and then needing to swim to relieve that stress…. Ah, yes – there is so much to say about swimming (despite the above vent).

I love water. Drinking it, bathing in it, showering in it, floating in it, washing with it, swimming in it. Water is vital to my life. I’m an Earth sign (being a Taurus) and the earth needs water to survive. Water is the earth’s nourishment. I think that is where my attraction to water stems from. The innate astrological desire to be near water. I love going to the beach and some of my favourite destinations in the world or places that I have lived are either port/harbour cities, or are along the coast (eg Hamburg, Sydney, Namie, Yokohama, I’ve lived in island countries – Australia and Japan). My favourite animals are also water creatures, my favourite animal being a penguin. (I also like fish, and dolphins). Water is so freeing, cleansing, purifying. Swimming too is all of this – for the mind and body. Metaphorically, I am an island (the earth) with the need to be surrounded by water. Ocean swimming is also a lot more challenging than pool swimming. You can’t fear depth. (Pools in Japan are also really shallow – they are usually at a depth that can be walked i.e feet touch the ground, the whole length). The thing about ocean swimming is that it’s a lot more unpredictable than swimming in a pool, for obvious reasons. The main factors are current/tide, absence of swim lanes, a lot more backwash, and colder water temps.

My local pool in Tokyo is an indoor heated pool with a water temp of 31 degrees which is way too warm for my liking. It’s almost like a tepid bath. Ocean water is usually about 19 degrees. Swimming in cold water is a bit of a shock to the system and your body struggles that little bit more to move. The body’s muscles are lot more flexible when warm. Cold water temperatures are going to work against you. The current or tide too can either work for you or against you. I’ve been in some swims where the current is so strong, that no matter how hard or fast your arms and legs are going, you’re not moving anywhere, the current keeps pushing you back. This wears you out and slows you down. For example, I’ve swum a 1.6km swim in a harbour. My time for that swim was in the 40minutes. A pretty slow time for me, considering that in a pool in 40 minutes, I would have been able to rack up 2km. In the open water, there are no swim lanes, and your sense of direction is warped. It’s really hard to see where you are going and where you are headed, with only a bouy or two off in the distance over the waves. You could be swimming off an angle which adds metres to your actual distance swum, and then you struggle to get back on course. There’s no black line on the bottom of the ocean floor to direct you. Also there’s no pool walls to push and kick off from every 25 metres. In an ocean swim race, you’ve also got a lot of people which means that people are kind of swimming over the top off each other and it can get a little rough with arms and legs flying about, getting kicked, or elbowed. I’ve had my goggles kicked off my face before. A beach start, particularly at an Aussie beach, can also be quite tiring. You have to run from the sand into the beach and into oncoming waves. It can take a couple of minutes before you even get out pass all the waves to start stroke swimming. Ducking and jumping the waves is all part of an ocean swim.

Something else about ocean swimming which differs from a pool, is the water. Chlorine vs salt water. Salt water makes you that little bit more bouyant which is why sometimes you can actually swim a bit faster than you would in a pool. The downside, is that you surprisingly end up swallowing a lot of that salt water – what with all that splashing, and kicking from the other 100 people around you, you’re bound to get some of that in your mouth. By the end of the race, you’re pretty dehydrated. It’s not like jogging or walking, where you can have a bottle of water on you. Salty/sandy water can also give you a rash. I had never thought that you could get a rash from swimming. Learnt this the hard way in my very first ocean swim race. This is why Vaseline comes in handy. Apply to armpits, neck, and inner thighs before the race. There’s also a lot of marine life that you might encounter during an ocean swim. I’ve been in a few swims (in Oz) where you see lots of jellyfish. In my experience, they’re pretty harmless. You just swim right over the top of ‘em. In Oz too, there’s also the very real threat of sharks and bluebottles. I was stung once by a bluebottle as a kid. I was just entering the beach and had gotten knee-deep when one wrapped itself around my knee and stung me. I couldn’t walk for a week. I suffer really bad reactions from stings. (I am also allergic to bee stings). Not everyone will suffer the same reaction. Oh, the joys of ocean swimming. It can be kinda scary sometimes swimming out in that vast unknown liquid vacuum of an ocean. Yes, ocean swimming is a challenge – mentally and physically. I like ocean swim races because there’s a start, an end, a whole lot of time to think about things in between. It’s kind of funny and interesting how many random thoughts and ideas go through your head when you swim (whether in an ocean or pool). If you had a random group of test subjects who were told to swim continuously for 30 minutes and their brain was hooked to a machine that could read thoughts, I bet there’d be numerous random thoughts floating around. Swimming, interestingly enough, is also one of those activities that you have to do alone. Sure, you can go along to the pool with a friend, but the act of swimming is a solo one. You can’t swim with someone and chat to them as you would if you walking or jogging with a friend. You can’t really even listen to music. You swim with yourself, and against yourself. It is best enjoyed alone. And that’s not a bad thing. In fact, it’s one of the things I like swimming. Being in a little bubble in my own pool of thoughts without the need to converse with anyone or listen to external stimuli (no iPod, no phones, no tv, no sounds) for a 30 minutes a day). It’s my form of meditation almost. Of silent fluid movement.

This summer, I have decided to compete in at least 3 open water swim races in Japan. Hopefully I will end up doing 4 or 5 though – at a rate of one ocean swim per fortnight, which will take me into the next two months. To compete in one swim per week is a little strenuous on the body and social life. Coincidentally, the swims that I will be competing in are in different prefectures of Japan. This is great – I’m combining travel (weekend trips away with a spot of sightseeing) as well as a swim race (exercise and healthy competition is good for oneself). 3 swims. And 3 prefectures. At a minimum.

I was lucky enough to come across the Japan open water swim association websites which list all the ocean swim races around Japan. I’ve been obsessed with scouring these websites.

The first website is: Open Water Swim Japan (link here). This is my favourite one. It’s pretty and nice. It’s also the most comprehensive one in terms of all races throughout Japan. The Race Information tab lists all the open water swims for the year (the primary months being March to September, with the bulk of the swims in June and July).

The second website is: Open Water Japan. (Link here). This is the Japan International Open Water Swimming Association. The first website, will often refer you to this website. This website however does not list all the swims through Japan. To then enter the majority of the swims, you will be referred to this registration site: Sportsentry (link here). This website lists a whole bunch of sports and events, for which you can enter and compete in. It is not limited to swimming. Some private swims will have their own website and registration method.

For keen runners you’d probably be familiar with Runnet (link here). They also have a Swimnet website (link here) which overlaps with a lot of the information from the first two swim websites. Swimnet however also lists combined swim and run events if you’re into biathlons, and other swim races which are more pool-related rather than ocean swims. There’s a whole world of sports out there to participate in. It’s all about having a goal, and seeing it through to the end. Doesn’t matter if you’re first, second or last. If there’s one thing I believe in, it’s setting yourself challenges and goals regardless of your level or ability.

So far, I have officially registered for 2 swims, with a couple more pending. My first swim kicks off this weekend. It’s only an 800m ocean beach swim in Shizuoka prefecture. Starting off small and building my way up. This is the best way to do it. Don’t want to go out too hard too fast. This swim is the Atami Sun Beach race event. The race options here were pretty limited. The choice was either an 800m swim or a 3.2km swim – nothing in between. I’ve opted for the 800m, but will be ramping up the swim distances thereafter. I bought a new pair of swim goggles just a couple of weeks ago. First new pair in about 6 or 8 years. Made me realise how on earth I ever saw underwater with my old pair. Memo to self: replace goggles on a more regular basis.

I’ve done very limited training for this weekend’s race. I am confident that I can pull a decent time (not great, but decent) without a lot of training. I know that I can go the distance, but unsure of my timing. I would like to do it in under 15 minutes but it really depends on the conditions. Last weekend’s 17km hike was not a good idea a week before an ocean swim. Even four days after the hike, my muscles are still really sore and tight. I’m not in the best condition this week for my first ocean swim in about 5 years, let alone an ocean swim in Japan. My first real swim in a Japanese beach. Should be an interesting summer. Wow. When I talk about swimming, I can talk a lot.

 

High Tea at the ANA Intercontinental Hotel, Tokyo

Another Sunday, another high tea in Tokyo. I’ve been going at a rate of one per month. This time we headed to the ANA Intercontinental hotel in Akasaka (accessible from the Nanboku metro line) Spending a few hours in an luxury air-conditioned hotel eating cakes and sweets with a cup of tea is a perfect way to escape the heat and humidity of Tokyo in June. Skye and I each brought a friend to join us for a ladies afternoon tea – spreading the love one cuppa tea at a time. The ANA Intercontinental hotel serves afternoon tea between the hours of 2-5pm in the Atrium Lounge, although you can lounge about for as long as you like. It was surprisingly very busy. There are a choice of two afternoon sets – the bread set or the sweets set. We all decided on the sweets set. As usual, there are an assortment of teas to choose from, with free hot water refills. Most places that offer afternoon tea should give you pot refills. The biggest disappointment with this venue for afternoon tea was the absence of scones!! The height of rudeness. How blasphemous to exclude the humble scone from an afternoon tea. The scones are the best part. Big points lost right there. It was still a lovely set though. I also wasn’t a huge fan of the sandwich. It was just the one sandwich but it was triple-decked so the salmon mixed with the ham wasn’t really to my liking. Much prefer when the sandwich fillings are on separate sandwiches. Oh well. As lovely as it was, it wasn’t a very “traditional” afternoon tea (no scones!). The sets are 2950yen per person (3 tiered platter plus tea) plus tax. If you make an advance reservation for the weekend, you will get 10% off the bill. It cost us 3000yen per person with the discount. The Peninsula Hotel and St Christophers Garden remain my two favourite places to date in Tokyo for high tea. But there are still many more places to review. All the details for afternoon tea at the ANA Intercontinental hotel can be found here

High Tea at the Mandarin Oriental, Tokyo

So you all know how much I love doing high teas. I have been able to convert Skye and Bex to being fans of it as well. And now any occasion where there is an excuse to do so, we are all well on board. The weekend of May 8-9 was Bex’s last weekend in Japan as she made the move back to the UK after what was about 5 years living in Japan. An end of an era. I met Bex on the JET Program when I was placed in the same town as her – the sleepy town of Namie along the Fukushima Coast. After our JET days we both then went on to work in Niseko ski town. Prior to her departure, we organised a weekend-long 送別会 for her. Sunday lunch was at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel for High Tea. It’s a 5-star luxury hotel with a most superb tea lounge located on the 38th floor offering great view of Tokyo. They call the hotel a “Tower of Contemporary luxury”. The 38th floor – this was quite literally “High” tea. The food portions however were more of an afternoon tea proportion rather than a proper high tea.

From Mandarin Oriental High Tea
From Mandarin Oriental High Tea

Coincidentally, this year the hotel is celebrating its 5th anniversary. On offer was the Legendary 5 year Anniversary Afternoon Tea menu, subtlely themed around the number 5. The afternoon tea here at the Oriental Lounge is a modern contemporary take on the traditional British afternoon tea. There were no 3-tiered platters or pots of tea. It was a little different. Although I am more of a traditional gal when it comes to high tea.

From Mandarin Oriental High Tea

Our scones were served first, which I personally prefer last. They were petite scones – one original, and the other an Earl Grey scone accompanied with cherry jam and an apricot jam, as well as clotted cream. No strawberry jam – I was a little disappointed.

From Mandarin Oriental High Tea
From Mandarin Oriental High Tea
From Mandarin Oriental High Tea
From Mandarin Oriental High Tea
From Mandarin Oriental High Tea
From Mandarin Oriental High Tea
From Mandarin Oriental High Tea

Next was the sandwich assortment plate. Usually this is served first. I think on this occasion there was a slight delay with our sandwiches because I had forgotten in advance to arrange vegetarian ones for Skye, and the kitchen needed to prepare an alternative plate. The savoury plate consisted of the following: – Foie Gras Parfait – Peach Puree with Port Wine jelly and pistachio nut – Open face sandwich of smoked salmon and dill sour cream – pork ham and egg tart with pink pepper. – tuna and potato sandwich.

From Mandarin Oriental High Tea
From Mandarin Oriental High Tea
From Mandarin Oriental High Tea
From Mandarin Oriental High Tea

The vegetarian plate exceeded our expectations. We thought they would just come out with some plain cheese, tomato and cucumber sandwiches, but instead we were surprised with roasted chargrilled vegetables, avocado, asparagus and chutney.

From Mandarin Oriental High Tea
From Mandarin Oriental High Tea

A delightful dining experience. The service was impeccable as well. 5 stars for service. We had a great waiter. Another difference with afternoon tea is that there are no pots of tea. Instead, you select teas of your choice from the menu and they will bring out cups of tea to you. You can try as many different types of teas as you like, which we did. Mind you, there is quite a selection. Here are some of the teas on offer: – Assam – Darjeeling – Lavender – Earl Grey – Iced Muscat – Lemongrass – Blend teas – Chamomile, to name just a few… And you can have as many cups of tea (or coffee) as you like. Cuppa tea houdai. Admittedly, I do like the teapot experience, but this was not so bad either. -having cups of tea brought out to us on beck and call.

From Mandarin Oriental High Tea
From Mandarin Oriental High Tea

This was followed by a delectable mango pudding with coconut sauce served in a fancy shot glass, complete with a specially shaped spoon to scoop out every last bit of mango pudding from those hard to reach places.

From Mandarin Oriental High Tea
From Mandarin Oriental High Tea
From Mandarin Oriental High Tea
From Mandarin Oriental High Tea

The highlight and the specialty feature of afternoon tea at the Mandarin Oriental is the final course – the desserts. In the absence of a 3-tiered platter, the desserts are brought out in a Sweets Wheel-like ornament. It’s aesthetically beautiful. This is a classic example of food as art. The dessert assortment was the 5 Anniversay Petit Fours and consisted of the following: – Five spice meringues with chocolate brownie – 5 layered Baumkuchen – 5 fruits Macron – 5 kinds of nuts tar – 5 cereal cookies. They looked beautiful and way too good to eat, delicately arranged on a circular wooden antique ornament.

From Mandarin Oriental High Tea
From Mandarin Oriental High Tea
From Mandarin Oriental High Tea
From Mandarin Oriental High Tea
From Mandarin Oriental High Tea
From Mandarin Oriental High Tea
From Mandarin Oriental High Tea
From Mandarin Oriental High Tea

What a most divine relaxing experience. Service was amazing and atmosphere great too. There were quite a number of people in that lounge. It seems quite popular amongst the well to-do’s. We spent a leisurely couple of hours at the Oriental Lounge.

From Mandarin Oriental High Tea
From Mandarin Oriental High Tea

I booked a couple of weeks in advance and requested window seating which we were assured of at the time of booking, so we had a great window seats with a view on nice plush lounges. I highly recommend booking in advance and requesting window seats.

From Mandarin Oriental High Tea
From Mandarin Oriental High Tea
From Mandarin Oriental High Tea
From Mandarin Oriental High Tea
From Mandarin Oriental High Tea

Service, views and presentation were superb. Taste and filling factor a little lacking in comparison to a few other places I’ve been to for high tea. Still great value though for service, views, beautiful presentation, relaxing environment, and endless cups of tea, even if the food is somewhat petite. Even the bathroom at the hotel was very pretty. Glass window walls which looked straight out over Tokyo. The Mandarin Oriental 5 year Anniversary Afternoon tea is 3800yen (can’t remember if that included tax or not).

From Mandarin Oriental High Tea
From Mandarin Oriental High Tea

The hotel’s website in English can be found here For afternoon tea, you’ll want to make a reservation at the Oriental Lounge (and don’t forget to book a window seat), not to be confused with the Tea Corner – Sense located on Floor 37, which is an oriental tea room. Access: Ginza metro line, get off at Mitsukoshimae station, take Exit A8 onto the street, face left and you will be right out the front of the Hotel.

St Christopher’s Tea Garden : Jiyugaoka

Sandwiches, scone with jam and cream, cakes and a pot of tea. There is no finer way to spend a Sunday afternoon than a high tea with friends in Tokyo. (Well, maybe not so much a high tea as an afternoon tea). As a lover of High/Afternoon Teas I plan on visiting all of Tokyo’s offerings. St Christopher’s Garden is a little oasis in Tokyo. It’s a British tea garden in the suburb of Jiyugaoka about 10 minutes from Shibuya. Jiyugaoka is a very pretty district full of shops, cobbled streets and cute cosy cafes. Great for walking off all the cakes consumed. It was a girls’ day out celebrated with a 3-tiered platter of sandwiches, scones and sweets, and of course, tea. The sandwiches were a traditional but delicious assortment. They literally melted in your mouth. There was a cucumber sandwich, egg sandwich and salmon. (The salmon can be substituted for vegetarians upon request). There was also a tiny quiche tartlet. Yum. I love quiche. The sandwiches are a nice starter to the sugar overload that follows. There were scones with clotted cream and jam. I always save the scones to last. Before the scones I always eat the sweets. There were quite a few desserts to get through too. There was mousse cake, a carrot cake, a fruit parfait and a strawberry cake. Some of the ingredients are organic too, and most are made with fresh seasonal fruits. The menu usually changes with the season. There was also an extensive selection of teas to choose from from black blend teas like assam, ceylons, to fruit and herbal teas and everything in between. My only complaint would be that all of our teas were too strong. We had received them overbrewed. It was nonetheless a pleasant dining experience. Being the group of gaijins that we were, we also had an excellent English speaking waitress. Afternoon teas mostly draw a female crowd but we did see a husband who had obviously been dragged along by his wife and mother-in-law. But honestly, why wouldn’t a guy enjoy afternoon tea. There’s nothing un-manly about a pot of tea and some cakes and sandwiches. I do recommend that you reserve if planning on visiting this tea garden. It was pretty busy and full with tea-lovers seated over two floors. Website here complete with map, menu and contact details.

St Christophers Tea Garden in Jiyugaoka
St Christophers Tea Garden in Jiyugaoka
Quiche tartlet
Quiche tartlet
sandwiches
sanwiches
Dessert platter
Dessert platter
3-tiered platter of indulgence
3-tiered platter of indulgence
Scones with cream and jam
Scones with cream and jam
A nice pot of tea
A nice pot of tea